China’s luxury consumption has risen to the second in the world, but China’s luxury consumption still needs education. Is n’t it just to have money, and it’s not wrong to spend money without knowing where your money is actually spent? Take a step back 10,000 steps and learn more about the story of this century-old family business of clocks and watches that is ‘Houmen is like the sea’, which is also a compulsory homework for fashion entry students.
In fact, a traditional and conservative industry like clocks and watches is about the heritage of European nobility. If you do n’t know the inner connection between different brands, it’s tantamount to knowing where their movements come from, how the entanglement between the tourbillon and Carloso is formed, and the various technical inheritances and turns, you will be like a cloud. In the fog.
意义 The meaning behind watch pedigree
Longines Somia Series
If you are still arguing about the movement of the Omega Longines Tissot or the jewelry design of the Earl of Cartier Chopard, it is because you do not know that many famous watch brands actually belong to the two major watch groups and have all kinds of details. Ray of links.
传统 Traditional and conservative industries like clocks and watches pay attention to the heritage of European nobility. If you do n’t know the inner connection between different brands, it’s tantamount to knowing where their movements come from, how the entanglement between the tourbillon and Carloso is formed, and the various technical inheritances and turns, you will be like a cloud. In the fog.
For example, the great Swiss watch Group ETA movement is often used to talk about things. Runs through the group from ordinary to mid-to-high-end brands. For example, Swatch, Tissot, Longines and even some Omega models will be used. No one denies the contribution of the ETA movement to the entire Swiss watch industry. From design to mass production and quality control, ETA controls the entire process in an orderly manner. Not only is it the largest movement supplier of Swiss watches today, but it also gives many small and medium brands an incentive to continue to survive. Therefore, when the founder of the Swiss watch Group, Old Hayek, said that he would stop selling ETA movements, the whole world, at least the watch world, was shocked.
Family secret history, deciphering the rise and fall of the watch industry
Breguet Queen of Naples
In fact, many family businesses have also been passed down through several generations by watchmakers, and many have been acquired by large groups. Nowadays, some of the large independent watchmakers are not all created by themselves, and there are hundreds of artisans Workshop, vertical work. Even the two major watch groups have developed a family business in this respecting tradition. In interviews with reporters, whether it is the Swiss watch group or Richemont Group, everyone said that even in group-based operations, everyone often meets like a family. Any inspiration can be communicated at any time, not the kind of cold relationship of a business group.
The handover of power of the Qiang family is the gossip story most people hear. The founder of the Swiss watch Group, Old Hayek, a heavyweight who is believed to have saved the Swiss watch industry, left Swiss Office in Swatch Group’s office on June 28, 2010 local time due to heart failure. This world. After his death, within two days, the Swiss Watch Group successfully transferred power. Nayla Hayek, the daughter of Old Hayek and then the global CEO of TIFFANY Watch, succeeded Old Hayek and became the chairman of the board of Swatch Group. Her brother Nick Hayek continues to be CEO of the Swatch Group. As the third generation of the family, Marc A. Hayek has always been the global CEO of Blancpain. After the death of Lao Hayek, he replaced Lao Hayek as the global CEO of Breguet and Jacques Delo. The young CEO of a traditional top watch brand has always been in the limelight.
However, Chopard, who has always adhered to the family business, has two Chopard successors in charge of the watch and jewellery fields. His creative enthusiasm is unlimited and it is also a model of family business. A senior watchmaker told reporters that Chopard’s creative passion lies in the fact that it does not resemble some commercial operations and releases a new watch for one year at the Basel watch exhibition. In the year after the exhibition, you will see the newly released watches appear on different occasions in Chopard. This also makes watch lovers always look forward to participating in every event of it.
Family management, not trying everything
Rolex Greenwich Full Diamond Platinum Watch
However, a smooth transfer of power like the Hayek family can already be a good story in the industry, because after all, it needs to be cultivated from a young age, from the watch profession to the commercial literacy, the task is quite firm. For many centuries of Swiss family brands or just the first generation of independent watchmaker brands, succession issues are a big problem.
问题 Will the successor issue profoundly affect the development direction and operation mode of the independent watchmaker brand or family business? Would it be helpful to include group operations? Pan Jian, a veteran domestic watchmaker and editor-in-chief of Fashion Time, provided reporters with four family examples.
After the previous president of Patek Philippe took over the company from his father, he decisively adjusted the product structure and expanded the industrial scale, increasing the original production of 6000 pieces to the current 40,000, making Patek Philippe the world’s first watch. One brand. In 2009, Mr. Fili passed the industry to his son Mr. Teri Stein. Mr. Teri grew up in a “household” environment from childhood and adhered to his father’s business line. All he did was to make Patek Philippe stable Overlord position, and further widen the distance with competitors. There are two keywords in this story: sublation and inheritance.
And Rolex, who has always been the industry’s ‘independent empire,’ also has stories. After Mr. Hans Wilsdorf laid down Rolex, his children were reluctant to inherit his father’s business. His successor established the Rolex Foundation to implement full brand supervision. Under the foundation’s operation, Rolex transformed from a watch factory into a ‘manufacturing empire’ with more than 20,000 employees. This foundation is independent and does not depend on any large group.
I also have stories that are not favored by professionals. ‘The family brand that Lange’s descendants bought back from the former East German government was acquired by Richemont Group. Due to the conflicting market positioning of the product with Vacheron Constantin and Cartier in the same group, its enthusiasm could not be completely released. Pan Jian commented on this German watch brand that has always attracted people’s attention.
In 2009, Bvlgari acquired Jero Zunda and Daniel Rose. The two independent brands had small scale operations and limited product sales channels. After the merger, relying on Bulgari’s huge sales channels around the world, their production capacity not only increased rapidly, but also the popularity of their products. This is a positive example of the rapid development of independent brands after they were acquired.
The rise of independent watchmakers
When it comes to the creation of Swiss watches, in fact, it has always been a low-key but must know that independent watchmakers. It’s been just 25 years since the establishment of the Swiss Association of Independent Watchmakers, but independent watchmakers have attracted the attention of the industry this year. Laurent Ferrier, who had left Patek Philippe, won last year’s Geneva Haute Horlogerie Award. The earlier F.P. Journe has already won several Geneva Haute Horlogerie awards for his talent in the past decade. At the end of last year, he won the ‘Best Complex Watch’ with a new Chronomètre à Résonance.
Franck Muller, Parmigiani, famous independent watchmakers, but now has more than 100 workshops. Senior Tibetan watchmakers told reporters that, strictly speaking, they have transformed into brand management. But no one said that this transformation was bad. After all, from an independent watchmaker, to family heritage, to group management, it can be considered a typical route for a brand to grow bigger.
Biswatch Group, located in Biel, Switzerland, is the largest watch brand group in the world today. The group has 19 different brands of watch brands and a multi-brand tourbillon retail network, including: Breguet, Blancpain, Glashütte-Original, Jaquet Droz, Leon Hatot, Tiffany, Omega, Longines, Rado, Tissot, Balmain, cK Calvin Klein , Certina, Mido, Hamilton, Swatch, Flik Flak, etc. The Swatch Group has sales of different brands in different retail market segments. In addition to watches, the Group also manufactures and sells jewellery, watch movements and accessories. The Swatch Group’s own spare parts products can meet almost all of its own watch production needs, and provide movements and spare parts used by watch manufacturers in Switzerland and other countries in the world.
The Richemont Group is a Swiss luxury goods company founded in 1988 by South African billionaire Anton Rupert. The company’s four business areas are: jewelry, watches, accessories and fashion. Since 2004, it is the world’s second largest luxury goods company in terms of turnover, ranking between Louis Vuitton (LVMH) and Paris Spring (PPR).