Month: June 2014

Panerai Has A Fever, But 687 Is Hot

It is not too late to get to the topic. Of all the mainstream watches, the least I know is Pei. For other brands, anyway, the brothers asked a certain model, what watch, what movement used, what are the characteristics, what is the current market, I basically know some. Only Panerai, reporting the model, I can’t match the number at all, I don’t know which watch is Panerai, let alone how much it is. I basically know nothing about Panerai. There are two reasons for this. One is caused by my previous work environment; the other is that I have thin hands and can’t wear Panerai, so I don’t pay attention to Panerai’s watch. My memory of Panerai has been stuck on the watches 000, 005, 111, 382 many years ago, because I had tossed the manual watches of 005 and 111, 6497 before, I find it inconvenient, I always forget to wind Although the size of the 44 is not too big, it is too thick and it will not be worn later. The watches that came after a long time did not know.

I still know one of Pei, 111.
   Although I don’t know Panerai’s watch, anyway, I have also watched the ups and downs of Panerai in recent years. A few years ago, when Panerai was on fire, the market went up. At that time, I was very impressed by saying that there were three brands that could be bought with closed eyes (at the time): Lange, FPJ and Panerai. These three brands of watches are on fire. At that time, we all used Rolex as a benchmark (in fact, it is now), whatever market is willing to take Rolex as a reference. Panerai’s momentum then surpassed Rolex’s. The basis is one word, expensive.

I still know Pei Bi, 005.
   After the fever, the fever is gone. It is estimated that everyone who bought it has also bought the freshness, and the price of Panerai has gradually dropped. I feel that many Panerai’s prices are not expensive now. Although they are all produced by themselves now, P3000, P9000, P5000, etc., there is nothing 6497, but the price is always cheaper than before. I did n’t have the feeling of being cheap before (the models on the market are not common, like bronze or Minerva).

Speaking of super-fair prices are PP and labor, in fact, this year there is a peculiar and appropriate super-fair prices.
   When it comes to super-price, we generally think of Patek Philippe and Rolex in our minds. This year’s most-discussed super-price tables are mainly concentrated on Rolex, including the Scarlet Letter, the ceramic circle Daytona, and the Green Ghost. The Patek Philippe 5711A and 5712A, which are often overpriced, are also used to us. However, this year, one Panerai was also on fire, steadily exceeding the public price, this is Panerai’s 687.

The hottest Panerai this year, 685 (black plate) and 687 (brown plate).
   687 is the new model of Panerai. Not long ago I saw one in a friend’s shop. 687 is not an ordinary Panerai, very special. The most special of the 687 is its bezel. Panerai’s bezel is generally a circular aperture (the Panerai diving watch has a rotating bezel), the bezel of the 687 is a 12-sided, and there is lettering on the bezel. The gradient brown surface is also very unique. Since this watch is different from other Panerais, let me first tell the origin of this watch.

685/687 is a prototype watch from the 1930s of Paner Offshore.

   The source of the 687/685 (685 is the black-disk version) is the prototype Radiomir 3646 provided by Panerai to the Italian Navy in the 1930s. The prototype watch in history is a watch with a 12-sided bezel, bezel lettering and a Rolex movement. Engraved on the bezel ‘Officine Panerai-Brevettato’ means Panerai patent. 687/685 is a modern model introduced with reference to this historical watch. There are two models, 687 and 685, because the 687 with gradual brown dial mimics the oxidation and discoloration of antique dials, and is intentionally made into a brown oxidized dial. The black dial 685 retains the appearance of the original black dial. We all know that because the technology is not yet in place in history, the paint on the watch face will change color after a long time, white will turn yellow, and black will turn brown. Because this brown color is like a ‘sun-dried’ color, it is called a ‘tropical disk surface’. This color-changing disc surface will increase the value of the watch, because there is a feeling of time. This time, the dial was made into oxidized brown deliberately.

We can see that the 685/687 uses a 12-sided bezel with lettering on it.
   As for the 12-sided bezel of the 687/685, many players find it strange. But when I saw this watch, I was not surprised, because I have seen this bezel once before. This is the case. When many brands, including Panerai, release new watches at the show, some watches are not announced, and they are only shown to VIPs. My impression was in 2013, when I saw a pair of Panerai photos that were not released to the public, the numbers were 521, 522, one platinum, one rose gold, using a Melamine movement, the bezel was 12 sides 521/522 should be used for the first time. Now the 687/685 is once again used with this 12-sided bezel and engraved, which is currently unique to Panerai.

Panerai 521/522, we can see that these two Pei’s bezels are the same as 685/687.
   Another important reason for the 687’s fire this time is the steel shell. The 521/522 was also a 12-sided bezel, which is also very special, but one platinum and one rose gold is destined to be a few people’s pockets. The gold case is expensive, you can’t afford it, the steel watch is easy to get started. Although I couldn’t match the Panerai model, I was instructed and learned how to choose Panerai. First, buy 47mm Panerai, because 47mm is Pei’s traditional and classic size. Second, buy a steel case Panerai, because Panerai’s original military watch was a steel case. Third, choose two Panerai needles, that is, only the hour and minute hands. Fourth, choose the blue or gold needle. I do n’t know Panerai, but I vaguely feel that these methods seem to make sense, because many of Pei that meet these conditions are good hot models. 687, is a 47 mm, steel case, two needles, gold needles, all meet.

Steel case, 47 mm, two needles, gold needles, 687/685 all fit.

P3000 manual movement used in 687/685, 3 days power.

   687 is limited to 1,000 pieces, with a public price of more than 69,000. The normal price is neither expensive nor cheap. I heard that when the market is high, the price can reach 8 and I don’t know if it is true. In short, the current price is more than 70,000, which is a little more than the public price. 687 now claims to be the only one that can surpass the public price except bronze. 687 is indeed a small quantity on the market, many people look at the situation of 687, and instead buy 685. 685 is the same as 687 except that the color of the plate is black, and 685 can be a lot cheaper. Now Panerai 687 makes me feel like a Rolex green ghost. As a person who does not know Panerai, I can see that the watch 687/685 is good, this watch is definitely very good.

Panerai 2 bronzes, 507 (left) and 382 (right).
   Finally, I would like to add some 687/685 configuration information not mentioned earlier. The glass of the 687/685 is not artificial sapphire glass. In order to restore the feel of the prototype in history, an acrylic mirror is used. In addition, the movement uses a P3000 manual movement with 3 days of power. I suddenly felt that fortunately, this watch used Panerai’s own movement. If a special movement such as Minerva was used, the price of 687 would be even higher.
   PS. Because I wrote this article myself, it will take a while to appear on the home of the watch, so during this time, the market of the watch will change. Some time ago, 687 was generally over the public price, but now I have seen individual prices fall back to 687, and some prices are already within the public price. Please pay attention to this situation.

Those Non-mainstream Professional Diving Watches

When you talk about professional diving watches, everyone will think of water ghosts and 50 噚, but in the world of diving watches, there are far more than two of them. Watch, will tell you the world of another professional diving watch. Underwater sports often require accurate time measurement, so watches with a certain diving performance have emerged as the times require, and a special category of sports watches has also been formed. Whether it is a professional diver or an ordinary underwater sports enthusiast, an excellent diving watch is their best partner. What is a diving watch? It is generally believed that it must be at least 100 meters waterproof to be able to engage in diving activities. Earlier dive watches focused on the design of the dial and case, allowing these models to maintain the stability of timing in the water, as well as reliable and clear visual readability. Nowadays, with the development of the times, no matter from external materials or internal movement functions, a new situation has been opened up.

   The Roger Dubuis watch factory, which has been established for more than two decades, was originally known for the manufacture of complex function watches. In recent years, it has also focused its attention on sports watches, and EasyDiver’s famous watch style strengthens the characteristics of the diving watch series. Launched in 2006, the EasyDiver K10 watch not only has a water resistance of 300 meters, but also boldly uses a tourbillon device. For sports-focused diving watches, a very precise and relatively fragile tourbillon device is added. A functional revolution, because the tourbillon device was born to counteract gravity. It is not known whether it works the same in the water as it does on land, but it is clear that the watchmaker has already made complicated diving watches. Opened a door. Of course, the material selection of this watch is quite practical, such as the use of lightweight titanium as the case, and the outer ring is made of aluminum.

   When it comes to the use of materials, I have to mention the Sport Tantalum Automatic launched by Montblanc at the 100th anniversary. In order to echo the year of the brand’s birth, the water resistance of this watch reached 1906 meters, and it is important to be able to achieve this performance One point is that the case is made of blue and black tantalum metal, which is hard and rare and twice as hard as steel. The tantalum metal has a very high melting point and it is quite difficult to produce. It provides a reference for the future selection of diving watch materials.

  Just as many watches are closely linked to racing competitions, there are more and more models related to underwater boat races. For example, the Sea Hawk II-USA 71 watch launched by Girard-Perregaux in the early days is for BMW ORACLE Designed by the fleet, the black carbon fiber dial not only has luminous scales and hands, but also has a power reserve display. The red 300-meter water resistance mark is located below the Girard-Perregaux font. The USA 71 class sailing pattern will appear, once again highlighting the theme of the regatta.

 Officine Panerai also held the second Panerai Classic Sailing Challenge in 2006. As a diving watch expert, Panerai naturally launched a Luminor 1950 Flyback with flyback timing function. Dial It is decorated with a delicate and chic Clous de Paris pattern, and the small dial is embossed to highlight the central part of the dial. Against the dark background, the scales, hands and chronograph with luminous effects are all clearly visible at a glance.

   Omega’s SeaMaster series is about to celebrate its 50th anniversary, and this classic diving watch has now evolved into many versions. The Planet Ocean Chronograph model not only uses a coaxial escapement, but it has also been upgraded to 600. The waterproof performance of meters, the seahorse badge on the spiral bottom cover, the outer ring of the case rotating in one direction, and the contrasting colors on the dial all show the characteristics of SeaMaster watches.

  Ulysse Nardin (Athens) has a close relationship with the ocean. In the years without satellite positioning systems, many ships relied on the astronomical clock of Athens to determine their location. Today’s Blue Surf watch commemorates the history of this chronicle. The blue design theme is fully interpreted in the case with a water resistance of 200 meters.