Month: September 2010

【sihh 2017】 A.Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual Pour Le

A. LANGE & SÖHNE The fifth masterpiece of the Lange ‘Pour le Mérite’ series combines five complex functions of the sesame chain drive system, tourbillon, chronograph, tracing hand function and perpetual calendar. The new Lange Tourbograph Perpetual ‘Pour le Mérite’ combining these complex installations can be said to be an unparalleled masterpiece of watchmaking.

Lange’s new Tourbograph Perpetual ‘Pour le Mérite’ combines the complication of sesame chain, perpetual calendar, tourbillon and tracking needle.

In October 1994, Lange launched the first watch series of the new era, including the legendary Tourbillon ‘Pour le Mérite’, the brand’s first model equipped with a tourbillon and sesame chain drive system. In 2005, Lange combined the two complex devices into one, creating the Tourbograph ‘Pour le Mérite’. Not only that, this watch was also equipped with a needle-tracing function, which was definitely the most complicated work of the watch factory at that time.
Today the new Tourbograph Perpetual ‘Pour le Mérite’ features a fifth complex device-the perpetual calendar. In fact, adding the perpetual calendar function to the Tourbograph Perpetual ‘Pour le Mérite’ is a very difficult challenge. On the one hand, it is necessary to maintain coordination when the various devices interact, and on the other hand, to prevent conflicts or unnecessary power loss between mechanical components. Therefore, in the development process, the perpetual calendar must be installed near the tourbillon. However, since only two-thirds of the surface of the movement is available, the movement has to be redesigned, and during the design process, the watchmaker did not want to increase the thickness of the movement.
The characteristic of Tourbograph Perpetual ‘Pour le Mérite’, from design to machinery, has once again demonstrated Lange’s perfect skills. Its dial reflects traditional timekeeping. Arabic numerals, train track minutes, blued-steel hands, 18-karat gold rhodium-plated calendar hands, and a clover arrangement of small dials all pay tribute to the classic Lange pocket watch. In addition, the combination of traditional and technical details such as the chronograph column wheel control system, the needle tracking device and the screw balance also highlights Lange’s classic. The two diamond endstones hanging from the tourbillon frame and the mirror-polished tourbillon bridge are placed in a platinum 950 case with a diameter of 43 mm, which can be said to further show the noble temperament of this complex masterpiece.
Perpetual calendar
Tourbograph Perpetual ‘Pour le Mérite’ is equipped with the new L133.1 movement, which consists of 684 parts, of which 206 parts constitute a perpetual calendar with pointer display. The perpetual calendar correctly displays the number of days in each month before 2100. Until 2100, corrections were not required on the last day of February. Once completed, the calendar will indeed be displayed again in the next century. In addition, the watch has three small dials. 18K yellow gold rhodium-plated hands mark the date at 12 o’clock and the day of the week at 9 o’clock. At 3 o’clock, the month and leap year are displayed together. The upper part of the analog date display also has a moon phase display, which has a precision of 122.6 years, while the dark blue disc is made of solid 18K gold.

Lange’s new L133.1 hand-wound movement, this movement alone has been tested for 3 years.

Chronograph with chasing hands
In addition to the two chronograph pushers on the outside of the crown, the third pusher at 10 o’clock also allows the Tourbograph Perpetual ‘Pour le Mérite’ to rank on the top of the top chronograph chronograph. The sapphire crystal case back allows the wearer to appreciate the fascinating function of the needle tracking device. Two column wheels precisely control the 18K gold-plated chronograph hands and blue steel chase hands. After a full rotation, the 30-minute integrating disc at 9 o’clock can be timed as many times as needed.
It is worth mentioning that the combination of the perpetual calendar and the chronograph chronograph is very rare. To create a watch that combines these two complex functions and ensure the stability of power is a very challenging and indispensable task. And Lange’s Tourbograph Perpetual ‘Pour le Mérite’, relying on its exquisite mechanical design, can enable several functions to be operated at the same time. For example, when the calendar indication is advanced at midnight, the timekeeping function can be used simultaneously.
One minute tourbillon
The perfect interaction between the tourbillon and the sesame chain transmission system can offset the two disturbing phenomena in the mechanical movement, namely, gravity and gradual weakening of the balance spring power, thereby improving the stability and accuracy of the speed. Tourbograph Perpetual ‘Pour le Mérite’ built-in L133.1 movement is already Lange’s tenth movement that combines a sophisticated transmission system and overcomes the problem of gravity. The tourbillon bridge on the faceplate is traditionally polished in black. This complex modification technique is also used for the first time on curved surfaces, once again bringing new challenges to craftsmen.
Sesame chain drive system
Lange is committed to developing an intelligent power management system for mechanical movements to compensate for the unavoidable torque loss of the main barrel. This research result includes three different constant-power escapement systems, and was first installed on the wrist in 1994. Sesame chain drive system on the table. The name ‘Pour le Mérite’ is derived from the scientific honor of the Prussian era, and all watches with this name enjoy the above technical characteristics. The so-called sesame chain transmission system is based on the principle of leverage. Then the power of the mainspring is connected to the pagoda wheel of the barrel through the sesame chain, and the constant power is transmitted to the movement in a clever way. The planetary gear system in the pagoda wheel ensures that when the watch is wound, the power transmitted from the main barrel to the escapement will not be interrupted. This delicate and sturdy device is meticulous in design, production, decoration and assembly.

Platinum material / L133.1 Manually wound movement / Hour, minute, moon phase display / Perpetual calendar function / Tourbillon device / Sesame chain transmission device / Chronograph function / Sapphire crystal surface, transparent bottom cover / Diameter 43mm

Perfect Design
Lange’s new Tourbograph Perpetual ‘Pour le Mérite’ Platinum 950 is limited to 50 pieces. The decoration of the watch factory’s homemade movement meets the highest standards of Saxony watchmaking skills. Blue steel screws, screw-fastened gold sleeves, bridges and splints made of untreated German silver, decorated with Glashütte ribs and scales, and hand-engraved timing bridges complement each other’s classic and complex devices.