Since launching the double gooseneck trimmer in 2002, Glashütte Original has become a model design with both technological innovation and aesthetic significance in the field of top-level watches.
Since the introduction of the double gooseneck fine-tuning device in 2002, Glashütte immediately became a model design with both technological innovation and aesthetic significance in the field of top watches. The design of this function can be described as the essence of human’s aesthetics of mechanical manufacturing, and it also expresses an emotional pursuit of the aesthetics of the movement and a respect for traditional technology.
Gooseneck fine-tuning, a traditional technique that originated in the middle and late 19th century, is a tuning device that has appeared in the pocket watch era. ‘Swan-neck’, as the name suggests, is shaped like a curved swan neck, with beautiful curves and elegant taste. A fine-tuning device that is too small and square, the ancient and modern watchmakers have shown their magical powers, doing as much as possible, as if this is not only a precision mechanical device, but also a spiritual thing with cultural connotation and beauty.
The fast and slow hand is the most commonly used fine-tuning device of a watch. The principle is to control the speed of the vibration frequency by controlling the length of the balance spring, thereby adjusting the speed of the travel time. However, in actual operation, it is often difficult to finely adjust the time speed by simply moving the speed hand with the human hand. In addition, the fast and slow needles often shift in daily life due to vibration or poor processing of the oil, which easily affects the accuracy of the movement. So the gooseneck fine-tuning came into being: use the elasticity of the metal sheet to clamp the fast and slow needles, and then finely adjust the offset of the fast and slow needles with a small screw. .
With the improvement of watch technology, many watches have evolved a variety of ways to fine-tune the speed of movement. Due to technical difficulties and other reasons, gooseneck fine-tuning has gradually become unpopular. Nowadays, all watches adopt this method. The brand of this beautiful fine-tuning device is also the only representative of Glashütte and Lange.
Glashütte Patent-Double Gooseneck Trimming Device
The purpose of gooseneck trimming is to adjust the speed control of the balance spring. This device is commonly used in German watchmaking. Glashütte’s patented double gooseneck trimmer uses a rotating screw to adjust the length of the vibration part of the balance spring, supplemented by the gooseneck-shaped metal torsion, and can also adjust the swing of the balance wheel, which can adjust the time More refined. Because in addition to the speed of the balance wheel will affect the accuracy of the movement, the amplitude of the balance swing will also affect the speed of the movement. (The greater the swing of the balance wheel, the lower the balance frequency and the slower the time. The same reason, and vice versa.) In addition, Glashütte uses a rare screw to fine-tune the balance wheel and its unique balance plate engraving. Grain, not only presents retro flavor, but also shows noble and gorgeous features.
In 2002, this innovative mechanism was first launched in the world. It was specially designed and manufactured for the Cal.65 manual winding movement and used exclusively by PanoReserve eccentric power reserve watches. The two finely crafted gooseneck springs in the watch are produced in Glashütte’s factory using electric spark etching technology. After hardening, they are carefully polished by hand and placed on the balance plate.
The double gooseneck springs independently adjust the speed and positioning of the oscillation system. The right gooseneck trimmer spring is used to adjust the fast and slow hands, it can lengthen or shorten the balance spring, thereby speeding up or slowing down the movement. The gooseneck trimmer spring on the left is used to push the screw balance spring bracket, thereby adjusting the end of the hairspring, or ‘falling distance’. Similar settings or pre-adjustments are done with hairspring clips and screws; fine-tuning is achieved with screws and gooseneck springs.
Wonderful double goosenecks attract attention
Originally, the double gooseneck fine-tuning art of watchmaking was only visible on the back of the watch when the watch was removed from the wrist, which inspired Glashütte design engineers with an unusual idea. In 2008, the PanoInverse XL eccentric watch turned the movement, which can usually only be seen through the sapphire crystal case chassis, and displayed the original double gooseneck trimmer proud of Glashütte on the front of the watch. On the surface, the wonderful double gooseneck-style fine-tuning is undoubtedly the focus of the movement. Inverse is the name of the name, and the movement is inverted.
However, to achieve this kind of bold ‘reversal’, there is no doubt that new parts need to be created and existing parts and auxiliary parts must be redesigned significantly. For example, all three splints and gear attachments for the movement and power reserve have been remodeled. The most important part of the change is the rearrangement of the chain train and the position of the fixed bridge of the balance wheel, which also results in the need to redesign the balance spring. Further changes also include the correction of the direction of the transmission wheels, and the design of the faceplate must also be re-conceived. These redesigned elements involve the rearrangement of the three major movement splints, the relocation of the gear wheel gear bearings, and the position of the power reserve display mechanism must be arranged separately, so as to make the proportions on the faceplate perfect. regret.
The PanoInverse XL watch with a new case was unveiled at this year’s Basel show. The galvanized silver double gooseneck trimmer was set on the balance bridge. The balance bridge was decorated with white galvanized carvings, and the spiral weights under it were regular. The swinging movement presents the beauty of the rotation of the central Glashütte winding movement Cal.66-04 in front of the eyes, with infinite charm. The off-center dial design gives the dual gooseneck fine-tuning device an extremely important practical angle and visual angle, ensuring that the rhythm and frequency of mechanical movements are extraordinary and precise, with minimal errors, making connoisseurs also issue their appearance layout and polished decorative parts Sincerely admire.
In the PanoInverse XL, the double gooseneck fine-tuning device uses the balance wheel bearing as the center point, and the left and right symmetrical hand-polished gooseneck fine-tuning layout is matched with a gold and silver staggered hand-carved hairspring balance plate, like a beautiful butterfly resting on the machine Above the core.
Calibration procedure for gooseneck trimmer
Loosen the screw to open the claw fixed to the balance plate, and loosen the screw to perform a wide range of coarse adjustments with fast and slow needles. Then use the screws on the fast and slow needles to make fine adjustments. Tighten the screws when finished.
The watch is worn in multiple orientations, and high-end watches are adjusted in orientation, that is, isochronous adjustment. Glashütte’s gooseneck fine-tuning also designed an isochronous adjustment method. Loosen the screw to open the claw fixed to the fast and slow needle, and then loosen the screw. Change the fixed angle of the balance spring by manipulating the fine-tuning screw to optimize isochronism , Tighten the screws when finished.
3. Coarse adjustment
Use the balance screw to change the moment of inertia of the balance wheel to adjust the travel time.
Loosen the screw to open the claw fixed to the fast and slow needle, then loosen the screw and use the screw to make fine adjustments.